Cookbook Confidential: Roden, Claudia, (1996) “The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York,” New York, Knopf 

My friend Bernadette from New Classic Recipe (https://newclassicrecipe.com) came up with the wonderful idea to have an on-line cookbook club with some of her blog buddies. What a fun, and great way to choose a recipe or two from the books, cook them, and review them. Then, you decide if the book is worth your shelf space! Please go to her site for other reviews of this book! ~ Dorothy Grover-Read, The New Vintage Kitchen https://vintagekitchen.org

In The Book of Jewish Food, Claudia Roden takes us on a trip around the world, examining each culture’s take on Jewish cuisine. Both Ashkenazi and Sepharidic cooking are represented, with background and insights on the evolution of many traditional and non-traditional dishes. 

A culinary anthropologist

Roden is a fascinating personality, born in Egypt, educated in Europe, well-traveled, and is the author of numerous works on Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, and Jewish cookery. More than a food writer, she is a cultural and culinary anthropologist who delves into her subjects from a unique historical perspective which lends much to her recipes, and their many variations.

A world of possibilities

       In this book, we might find an Italian pasta and anchovy dish; mouna au lait, a north African sweet bread with milk; chittarnee, an Indian sweet and sour chicken and onion dish; a Spanish quince paste; an Iraqi potato cutlet; or, a sweet bread from the lost Jews of China. 

Time to make a decision

            So many possibilities from which to choose! Should I make blintzes, a little pancake filled with cheese and fruit? Kreplach, a stuffed pasta? Gefilta fish, probably not. Matzo balls? I was a little afraid to attempt this one without a Jewish grandmother in the kitchen with me. But there was no need to worry, because she explains throughout the book that there really is no one Jewish cuisine, the foods are all influenced strongly by location and local customs, no matter the country. And, they vary from house to house as well.

Potatoes, of course

I chose to make a potato kugel simply because I realized that although I’ve had this luscious potato dish more times than I can count, I had never actually made it myself! This from a potato lover. Roden said there are many variations on a potato kugel from using grated potatoes to mashed, with the addition of spices, cabbage, and even cheese. She recommended a basic grated potato version using vegetable oil rather than chicken fat, and kept it simple with just eggs and onion added. Sounded like a perfect side to me.

A hit

            It was certainly a hit in our house. Easy to make using the food processor, it took quite a time to bake, but it was all hands-off time in the kitchen while the oven did the work. Husband loved it, as did I, and I’ll make it again, probably with a bit of fresh rosemary or some chives added.

Moroccan fish balls

            The main dish I prepared was one I’d never had but will definitely make again. Originating from Morocco, fish balls in tomato sauce was easy to make and really delicious! Little spiced balls of white fish were simmered in a fresh tomato sauce, and they came out light and delicate, beautifully seasoned, and full of fish flavor. I put this together while the potatoes were busy baking away. Definitely a keeper.

My recommendation

            It is easy to get lost in this book! It is a history book, a cultural exploration, an examination of the Jewish culture from different lenses around the world. The recipes are easy to follow, and Roden lets us know that there is such variation in most of them that it is really hard to make something that is not right. I highly recommend this book as a great resource and it already has a place on my bookshelf.

Potato Kugel

     

       Roden offers this simple version of potato kugel, using neutral oil rather than chicken fat. Other variations include using mashed rather than grated potatoes, cheese, cabbage, and some potato flour to thicken. Russet potatoes keep the interior of the kugel light and fluffy, while the top gets nicely browned and crisp. 

• 4 eggs, lightly beaten
• Salt and pepper
• 5 to 6 tbsp. neutral oil
• 1 large mild onion, grated
• 3 lb. (1 ½ kg.) Russet potatoes

            Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, lightly beat the eggs and add the salt and pepper, oil, and onion. I grated my onion in the food processor. 

            I also grated the peeled potatoes in the food processor to save time. Stir them quickly into the egg mixture so they do not discolor.

            Pour in a buttered, wide baking dish and bake for about an hour. I baked mine for 1 hour 15 minutes. Then, increase the heat to 450 to continue browning for just a few minutes if necessary.

            While this was baking, I made the fish recipe, and everything was ready when it needed to be.

Boulettes de Poisson à la Sauce Tomate

Moroccan Fish Balls in Tomato Sauce

  

          In Egypt, Roden said these balls were called ‘blehat,’ and their round shape made them a special dish for the New Year. However, she prefers the spiced Moroccan version which I’ve included here. There were no good large tomatoes at the markets, so I used canned whole peeled tomatoes I chopped up, and took advantage of the juice in the can to further enhance the flavor.

The sauce:

• 3 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 2 tbsp. neutral oil
• 2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped, OR, I substituted most of a can of whole peeled tomatoes plus its juice
• 3 tbsp. tomato paste
• 1 tsp. sugar, or to taste
• Salt
• ¼ to ½ tsp. cayenne pepper, or hot chili

For the fish balls:

• 1 lb. (500 g.) ground white fish (I used cod)
• 4 tbsp. dry white bread crumbs or matzo meal
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• ¼ tsp. ground ginger
• ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
• ¼ tsp. allspice
• A good pinch of nutmeg
• Salt and pepper
• 3 tbsp. finely chopped coriander or parsley
• 1 lemon, cut in wedges

            Make the sauce first. Fry the garlic in a wide pan in oil until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, sugar, salt, and cayenne. You can also use a chili pepper, removing it when you find the sauce hot enough,

            Add 2 cups of water (or juice from canned tomatoes), bring to a boil, then let simmer, mostly covered, until well flavored. I cooked mine for about a half hour for the tomato paste to really blend in well, then it simmered some more with the fish balls.

            Make the balls. Mix all the ingredients together and work to a firm paste with your hands. I did not have a meat grinder, so I used the food processor, carefully, just very short pulses, about 10. You don’t want to over pulse.

            Form little balls about the size of a walnut, and drop them in the gently simmering sauce. Cook for 20 minutes, turning them once. Serve with the lemon wedges. This was delicious with the kugel.

Since I have the better part of a tin of matzo meal left, perhaps I’ll give a try at some matzo ball soup…

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