Mardi gras is tomorrow, and I’m always looking for something from the south to help celebrate the day. We take seriously all the celebrations we can in mid-February, and tossing beads and dancing to a Zydeco band is right up there with Valentine’s dinners, and the first maple sugar on snow celebrations.
Oh, that flavor!
When I was younger, we lived in the deep south for a year. I learned to appreciate the vibrant flavors of Creole and Cajun cuisines when we visited New Orleans. Lots of spices, food that makes one pause and appreciate a world of flavor. I tested gumbos and jambalayas, poor boys and red beans and rice, and the lovely seafood gravy étouffée, made with abundant amounts of crawfish, and sometimes shrimp. It is much faster to make than a gumbo, and uses less ingredients, but both are a stew-like gravy with tons of flavor that is served with rice, usually white rice.
Not so much a New England product
But crawfish is not easy to find in New England. I know several fish markets in our wider area that (sometimes) carry the meat frozen, no guarantees. But since this is our region’s take on the delightful dish, I will graciously nod to my southern friends and substitute Maine lobster, a giant sort of crawfish cousin if you think about it. Although both are crustaceans, lobsters live in salt water. We can find live lobsters in most supermarkets most days of the week, so sourcing it here is easy. However, I have lots of substitutions at the end of the post so no matter where you are you can enjoy the flavors, and you can make it vegetarian and fast as well.
Take stock of the situation
Another reason to use fresh lobster rather than the frozen crawfish is so you can make your own lobster stock for the dish and for the rice as well. This is not fast food, but it is worth the time, and most of that time is simmering. The shells and a few odds and ends of veggies make a broth that can be served up as is in a pinch. Whenever we have lobster, I make stock and tuck it in the freezer, and this has saved a Wednesday night’s supper more than once.
It’s a good way to stretch two lobsters to feed six people, so there’s that to think of too.
I added tomato to this version so it is sliding more to the Creole side of things, and I admit to adding a bit of sweet red pepper as well as the traditional green, just to liven things up a bit. I’ve served this over brown rice because that is what I always have on my shelf and it’s a little healthier.
The roux
The roux is at the heart of many of these dishes. For the Étouffée, the roux is cooked only to the peanut butter colored state. In general, the longer the roux cooks and the darker it is, the less thickening power it will have. This is a quicker dish than gumbo, so the lighter roux works fine here; it’s also good if you are impatient. By using olive oil rather than butter for the roux, I cut down considerably on the saturated fat in this recipe with no harm to the flavor. I can hear some of you groaning, but a bit of butter added right at the end adds just the right amount of richness.
A world of possibilities
So many possibilities, so make this dish your own! Garnish as you like, and don’t forget to put on some good Cajun music and dance around the kitchen while everything is simmering.
Laissez les bon temps rouler!
Lobster Étouffée
- Two 1 ½ lb. lobsters
- 1 large yellow onion, diced
- 2 ribs celery, diced
- 1 small green pepper, diced
- 1 small red pepper, diced
- 1/3 cup white whole wheat flour
- 1/3 cup olive oil
- 6 cloves garlic, finely minced
- 1 tbsp. tomato paste
- 1 tbsp. Creole seasoning (recipe below)
- 4 bay leaves
- 4 or five sprigs of thyme
- 3 star anise
- A little more cayenne if you like
- 2 tomatoes, chopped, or 1 can diced tomatoes
- 1 quart lobster or fish or seafood stock
- 1 to 2 tbsp. butter or vegan butter
- 1 cup frozen peas thawed, optional
- Scallions, parsley, etc., to garnish
Boil or steam the lobsters as you like, or ask your fish monger to do it for you. Most will. Let cool, then remove all the meat, even from the fins and legs, and cut into bite-sized pieces. You should have between 8 and 10 oz. of meat. Keep cool in the refrigerator until needed. If making your own lobster stock, follow directions below before beginning the dish. When done, use that stock both in the étouffée and the cooking of the rice, plus some for the freezer.
In a large skillet, sauté the onion, celery, and peppers in a little olive oil until translucent, then remove from the skillet. Add the flour and oil and whisk over medium heat, not too hot. This roux will cook for about 10 to 12 minutes, or until the color of peanut butter. Don’t walk away from it.
When the roux is ready, add the garlic, tomato paste, and herbs, and let bloom a minute or so, toss in the reserved veggies and the tomatoes and let them all get to know each other for a bit. Then add the stock, bring to a simmer, and let cook away for 20 minutes. Taste for seasoning, then remove from the heat, add the lobster meat to the pot and let warm for a couple of minutes, along with the butter.
If you like, you can also stir in some thawed frozen peas at the end.
Serve over brown rice, and garnish with some scallions, parsley, or celery leaves.
Shrimp Étouffée: Substitute a pound of 25-30 shrimp, and use the shells to make your own shrimp stock, halving the lobster stock ingredients below.
Quick Étouffée: Because some days you have the time to do it all, and some days you just don’t. You can use frozen lobster meat or tails here, look for 8 to 10 oz. and substitute a good quality seafood stock from the fish market. You can also use a can of diced tomatoes rather than fresh, and if the tomatoes at this time of year don’t look so good, definitely use the canned, including the juices.
Mushroom Étouffée: A vegetarian version, because it is all about the seasonings and the roux. Substitute three portobello mushrooms for the lobster. Remove the gills and cut into 2 cm. pieces. Sauté these along with the onions and other veggies. You can also use any favorite mushroom here, and it is delicious. Use a mushroom or vegetable stock.
Crawfish Étouffée: Of course, if you live in the south, by all means use fresh crawfish meat!
Lobster Stock
- 1 large onion, diced, skins and root and all
- 1 large carrot, diced, peelings and all
- 2 stalks celery, diced, yes, the leaves as well
- ½ head garlic, smashed, peelings and all
- 2 tbsp. tomato paste
- 4 bay leaves
- 1 tsp. fennel seed, crushed
- Shells and body of 2 fresh lobsters
- 10 cups water
Heat a large stockpot over medium high and add a bit of olive oil. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and sauté until translucent but not browned. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook another minute or so, then add the bay leaves, fennel, and lobster shells. Cover with water and add some salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for about a half hour. Taste and correct the seasoning,
When finished, pour through a mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth.
Freezes beautifully.
Creole Seasoning
Of course, you can buy Creole Seasoning, but you probably already have all these spices in your pantry! This is a favorite house blend, but play with it and make it your own. The flavor of the smoked paprika isn’t traditional, but it adds a little something. You can also use any preferred sweet paprika, or even hot if you want more heat. Always adjust the cayenne to what you want.
- 1 tablespoon each smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano
- 1 teaspoon each thyme, fennel seeds, salt, pepper, and cumin
- ½ teaspoon cayenne
- Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
Mix together in a mortar and pestle or mini food processor until you get the consistency you like.
Second Act: Étouffée cakes!
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A special meal.
It really is, and it’s fun to make too.
One of my favorites! Delicious!
It’s such a wonderful dish, love those flavors too.
Oh this is super yum! I will be right over and I will bring the Hurricanes.
That’s a deal!!!
😃 Wait for me! 🍹
Hurry up babe! 📿
I love anything that uses creole seasoning. And this looks wonderful!
Thank you so much! It was really delicious.
All that looks fantastic!! My husband is Cajun but doesn’t like seafood, so I don’t get to indulge in these very much.
Oh, that’s too bad! But thanks for your kind comment. I’ll save you some next time!
Yum!! I swear that I could smell that delicious aroma right through my screen!
I think it is entirely possible! Thank you!
Yes, this recipe is worth dancing for!!!!
The mushroom version sounds really good.
When I made it with mushrooms it was delicious! It tastes really complex.
I’m a huge fan of mushrooms.
Me too! I think I have them in some way mist days!
🕺💕
Oh – great! Thank you for the ‘variations on the theme’ and the stock and Creole seasoning recipes ! now to put one’s own mind in gear depending on ingredients availabl !! Methinks some just-out-of-the-sea king prawns will come into play . ..and want to try your mushroom version as well . . !
The prawns would be perfect! So lucky to have them just out of the sea!
Well, 85% of Australians live within 2 !/2 hours of the sea, so most of us have our favourite ‘shacks’ to go eat oysters and prawns and buy whatever else just came off the boats . . . like you methinks!!!
Yes, we are lucky in New England being so small, no one is far from the coast!
Love those shacks! That’s where we get the best of it all here as well!
This is such a great version of Étouffée! Using lobster is a brilliant idea.
Your post brought back very tasty memories from a trip down south. Thanks! 🙂
Once again, I forgot to sign in to WP for commenting…. 🙂
It seems not to work again… Sorry for the multiple comments. Ronit
That’s all right, I like visiting with you!
I do this frequently!
So glad you have those memories too! I remember, as a very young woman the first time out of rural New England, the flavors in New Orleans were like awakening in a whole new flavorful world!
You had me at lobster which I absolutely love….looks and sounds most delicious, Dorothy 🙂 x
Thanks Carol! I’m with you, anything lobster is great!
Well now, whoever is sitting at your table is sure going to have a smile on their face. You go, Dorothy!
We definitely smiled at this one Judy, thanks! It was really good!
I’ve never even imagined I could cook something like New England Lobster Étouffée but you make it seem possible. I love the stories of your time in New Orleans and the influence on the way you cook and use spices. This had me laughing and appreciating your flexibility with fats. “By using olive oil rather than butter for the roux, I cut down considerably on the saturated fat in this recipe with no harm to the flavor. I can hear some of you groaning, but a bit of butter added right at the end adds just the right amount of richness.” This sounds doable and delicious! Thank you Dorothy! Loved the post. Hugs, C
Thanks Cheryl! I hope you give it a try, whatever version strikes your fancy. It’s really not any harder than any other stew, but sounds way more exotic.
PS Trying to get my cholesterol down too without having to take medication!
I can almost smell those wonderful spices from here, Dorothy! Definitely a case of using prawns for us though, the price of lobster is prohibitive. Happy Mardi Gras, enjoy your celebrations! We are busy cooking breakfast pancakes to mark the day, not quite your lovely Creole cooking but good comfort food all the same! 😊
A perfect way to mark the day Lis! Pancakes on a Tuesday, who could ask for anything more? Laissez les bon temps rouler!
Tout a fait, mon amie ! 😉
💕
I have discovered etouffee when I worked at a project as recipe developer, and oh boy, what a lovely dish! With lobster, crayfish, or even shrimps, is an absolutely delicious meal! I love the combination of spices!
The dish is all about the spices, isn’t it! So satisfying, and lovely to look at too.
You literally have me drooling, Dorothy! This is an amazing adaptation, and you’re right— lobster does seem like basically a humongous crawfish! 🦞 One of these days, I’ll be brave enough to cook one…
I love that you take the extra time to make a homemade stock. No doubt it adds a rich layer of flavor to this dish. Well done, my foodie friend!
Next time you come up, we’ll do lobsters. So start thinking of the perfect cocktail!!!!
Oooh, I’m on it!!!
“Laissez les bons temp rouler!” 🎉🎊💫
Oui! 🎶🕺📿📿📿
This, my dear, is beyond perfection!
The aroma in your kitchen from this had to be incredible!
I’ll take any leftovers that you might have!
Just a meal too late my friend, we made rice cakes for breakfast with the leftovers.
But next time….
Omg. I know this is amazing, but you obviously have easy access to lobster. Well, easier than living in Oklahoma! If I had a lobster I’d just cook it and dip in butter. I’ve had etouffee and it’s wonderful. But…
Thanks Mimi! My favorite is the butter dunk as well, but this was a lovely change! We are really lucky to be able to get Maine lobster any day, but there are lots of subs for this dish as well.
When I lived on a houseboat years ago we had a crawdad trap baited with carp that we also caught. We had mounds of boiled crawdads. Each of my husbands is from the south, the first from Mississippi, this one from Alabama. Needless to say I have eaten a lot of southern food!
Sounds like a very rich crawdad history with lots of food memories! How do you like to cook them?
Just boiled with seasonings.
If only I could eat off the computer screen! This sounds so good Dorothy!
Thank you Diane! It was really tasty!
Yum! I love the flavors of Creole and Cajun foods—a tasty discovery when I lived in Texas for a few years! 🙂
Isn’t it wonderful when you find just the right spices?
Sounds wonderful! Being in the panhandle of Florida right now, we had fried oysters and gumbo for Mardi Gras.
I add a teaspoon of coriander seeds to my seasoning mix and leave out the fennel. It is interesting since both coriander and fennel seeds have a bit of sweetness to them, that bit of sweetness must be needed to produce the taste we are looking for.
While I have a distinct aversion to coriander leaves, I adore the ground seeds, so very different. It is a bit sweet Julia, so is a good replacement for the fennel.
I’m drooling at the thought of fried oysters!
I’ve been pleasantly surprised that the grocery stores here carry fresh oysters!
We, you are surrounded by all that water!
I adore oysters! We can always find oysters here as well. Even though Vermont is landlocked, anywhere’s in New England you’re not far from the coast!
Love the addition of peas!
Thank you! I think the peas gave the dish some added texture and interest.
And I just love peas!
Hi Dorothy, this recipe looks fantastic. I’m keen to try a creole type recipe and one with lobster is a double win.
Thanks Robbie! It was really delicious, a favorite of ours.