The thing is, you either have no fresh peas or you have more than you think you know what to do with all at once. The same with summer squash. Gardens are like that. When the peas are in, we eat peas at every meal, and in our house, this is one crop that is always appreciated. We don’t tire of them. I can’t say the same about zucchini and other summer squashes. It seems there is such an abundance that most years we end up with much more than we can use. Oh the numbers of under-appreciated zucchini that have been abandoned on neighbors’ porches and unlocked cars!

A break in the summer tasks

            In my little garden beds, I grow both snow peas and sugar snaps. These produce for quite a while, and they come in slowly. I get my shelling peas (English peas, garden peas) from the farm stands, usually a couple of times in the season. When I was growing up, these were the only peas anyone grew, at least that I knew of, and they were such a treat. A lot of work, but we loved them. I remember shelling them on our porch in early summer with my mother, a big bowl between us, and we’d get into a good rhythm. It was a nice time to chat, and most likely the only time in the day that she got to sit down. There are lots of kitchen tasks that demanded a little break from running around, and they were well earned and appreciated back then. Still are.

Yes, we’ve a mess of peas just about now

            The peas were special because they were shucked, cooked, and eaten with great delight and no further work. Even though we would have ‘a mess of peas’ all at once (love that expression), there was never enough to can or freeze, so the chore involved was a pleasant one, unlike tomato sauce and jams that needed processing over hot stoves when it felt like 100 degrees outside.

Helping hands

            Peas were also some of the first garden crops my kids and grandkids planted. The seed, which are the peas of course, are quite large, so they could easily see what they were doing. Depending on the child, the peas were either planted with extreme precision (you know who you are) or more willy-nilly. But either way, it was exciting to pick and shell them many weeks later.

Busy bees

            The bees have been quite busy in my garden and I have lots of summer squash coming in. The farms do too as I found a big basket of squash blossoms at the farmers market this weekend and I couldn’t resist. Since the peas are abundant, I thought they would make a good filling for the blossoms. Usually, I’ve filled them with a cheese and greens mixture, Swiss chard or spinach, and fry them. But I thought I’d give peas a try in place of the greens and roast them in the oven. Success. A lot of farmers are just growing the sugar snaps, so if you can’t find the garden peas, just substitute thawed frozen peas.

Vegan alternative

            Vegans can enjoy these as well. Just substitute mashed potatoes or whipped vegan feta for the cheese and they will be every bit as tasty. So good with potatoes, but it’s really all about the peas, with a touch of mint. The squash blossoms are sweet and pretty and make a lovely pea delivery system. However, you can always just spread it on crostini if you don’t have any blossoms!

Roasted and Stuffed Summer Squash Blossoms

• 6 to 8 squash blossoms
• 1 cup steamed peas or thawed frozen
• ¼ cup goat or ricotta cheese or mashed potatoes
• 2 or three mint leaves, minced
• 1 tbsp. or so of water or pea broth*
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 450 F. (230 C.) Spray a baking sheet with oil and set aside.

Place peas, goat cheese, and mint in a food processor or blender and pulse until everything is broken up. Add a bit of water or broth to thin and continue pulsing. Season and taste.

Remove the stamens from the squash blossoms, they are edible but quite bitter. You can either place in a steamer over boiling water for about a minute, just to soften a bit. or fill as is. I think the steaming makes the work easier and you are less likely to break them and they are easier to twirl shut.

Let cool to touch and gently fill the blossoms with the pea mixture, just a tablespoon or so each. They are delicate, but it is easy to fill them if you make one tear along the side, use a demitasse or measuring spoon to fill. Wrap the flower around the filling and place on the baking plate. When all are stuffed, spritz with a bit of oil.

Roast for five to seven minutes, or until just starting to brown.

In the meantime, add more liquid to the remaining pea mixture to make a sauce, and process or blend until very smooth.

To plate, add the sauce to the plate and arrange the blossoms any way you like. Garnish with more peas or edible flowers if you have them.

*Pea Broth

Pea broth is a perfect base for any fresh pea or vegetable soup, and it is made from what normally would go into the compost. Use it in place of water to make rice, its great in sauces, cook pasta in it, or just consume it as a refreshing drink! 

To make pea broth, simply put all the pods from a batch of garden peas in a pot, cover with water, add some salt and pepper and maybe a chopped-up onion, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for about a half an hour. Strain, and then you can compost the pods guilt-free.

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“The sower may mistake and sow his peas crookedly; the peas make no mistake, but come up and show his line.” ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson