I spied them at the farmers market this week. One glance and I knew our brilliant hot summer days might really have an end. Delicata squash. Yes, belonging to the classification of winter squash. Long keepers that signal fall is not far off, even though officially it is still around six weeks away on the calendar. Time does fly.

Let’s not rush the season

            But it feels like deep summer still, even as the corn mazes appear in all their amazing splendor. But I’ll pass by the winter squash for the time being as I plan more summer projects like pickle-making, and I’ll stuff my freezer with pesto and berries and corn cut from the cob. We do have to be prepared for later on. Cooking is easy right now, a few steamed or roasted vegetables, perhaps a salad with a dozen veggies, or maybe even just corn for supper and nothing else. No arguments about that one ever. 

Let’s go to the fair

            Another sign the season is turning is the start of regional and state fairs, often a last blast of family fun before the kids start school. Today, the Vermont State Fair begins in Rutland at the fairgrounds on Route 7. 180 years strong, it runs through Aug. 22, filled with everything one expects from a summer fair with a midway with games and rides, blooming onions and fried pickles, tricky games, agricultural events and judging, exhibits, concerts, a demolition derby, and lots more. 

World’s Fair anyone?

            Our two favorite fairs are the Tunbridge World’s Fair (did you know there was a world’s fair every single year right in Vermont?) and the Champlain Valley Exposition. The Tunbridge World’s Fair is a traditional agricultural fair now 159 years and going strong. Look for tractor, horse, and oxen pulling, sheep, poultry, and dairy shows, lots of entertainment and exhibits, Sept. 17 to 20th. The Expo in Essex is a delightful mix of agriculture, a vibrant midway, and entertainment. We try never to miss this one, just the right size and close to home. This year it runs Aug. 28 through Sept. 6.

The Big E

            But the granddaddy of all New England summer fairs is the Eastern State’s Exposition, fondly known as The Big E, in Springfield, Mass., this year from Sept. 18 through Oct. 4. There are all the things one would expect, on a grand scale, and many things we don’t expect as well. It is the largest fair on the east coast, and the fourth largest in North America. We’ve never been able to do it all in one day, nor would be attempt it, and we’ve never gone two years in a row either!

Many other delights

            If you are looking for something not quite as rambunctious, the Plymouth Folk and Blues Festival is scheduled for Sept. 5 and 6, and in competition is Bennington’s Sept. 5 Garlic Town USA where you can even sample garlic ice cream. Not kidding here. Soon there will be apple and autumn festivals everywhere.

Taking time in the kitchen

            Until all the fun begins, I’ll enjoy my time in the kitchen with the summer vegetables that make up the bulk of our diets right now. Corn is at the top of the list, and I seldom buy just a few ear, it’s always the dozen or baker’s dozen and whatever we don’t use heads for the freezer. No brand of frozen corn tastes as good as own region’s when we tuck it away at the peak of delicious. Combined with the new onions and peppers and first of the apples (yes another seasonal sign), a vegetable medley can be really tasty and inexpensive. I always feel blessed to have such a variety of produce to keep us well-fed all summer.

Enjoyable flea

            At the end of our recent vacation, once we were back in Vermont borders, we took a delightful side trip to Quechee. In addition to the spectacular gorge, our reason for heading there was two-fold: our favorite group flea market, and Simon Pearce glass and its restaurant, really the latter was the biggest attraction. We didn’t find a lot at the flea, but what we found was well-priced and in good condition. I added a couple of Pyrex refrigerator dishes to my heavily used collection, and a pretty platter for $3 you will no doubt see at some point beneath a recipe.

A memorable lunch and inspiration

            But the highlight was lunch at Simon Pearce, an incredible glass-blowing enterprise which boasts beautiful, sturdy pieces. I found a lovely carafe in the seconds room and for the life of me I don’t see a thing wrong with it. Lunch was memorable because they served a tasty lion’s mane mushroom cake that could easily have passed for a crab cake. It was full of flavor and very moist and tender, and served over Israel couscous with an olive vinaigrette and lemon aioli. So, good! I wish I had thought to take a photo. Of course, I had to try to replicate the cake once I got home and was delighted with the results I’m sharing with you now. 

A lovely mushroom

            We are fortunate to have several mushroom growers close by, so finding lion’s main mushrooms was easy. If you don’t have any local growers, check any large health food store or grocery where there is abundant produce and mushrooms, many supermarkets are carrying a good variety now. Lion’s mane mushrooms are perhaps the meatiest, and make lovely little medalions. Really tasty too. You will need to tear the mushroom apart into little strips I’ve shown below, so if you have to substitute, keep that in mind.

A summer salad

            As for the summer corn salad, pick and choose, use what looks good at the farm stand or market, and don’t worry about exact measurements. After all, it’s still summer, and the living is easy.

Lion’s Mane Mushroom Cakes

• 225 g. (8 oz) about, lion’s mane mushrooms
• 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• ¼ cup minced sweet red pepper
• ¼ cup minced scallion bulb
• ¼ cup minced green scallion tops
• 1 scant tsp. Old Bay or other seafood seasoning
• 1 tsp. ground fennel seeds
• ¼ cup mayonnaise or vegan mayonnaise
• 1 heaping tbsp. Dijon mustard
• Zest and 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

            Tear the mushrooms into small strips. This takes a while, so put on some nice music to help pass the time. 

            Over medium heat, sauté the minced red pepper and scallion bulbs in the olive oil until soft. Add the scallion tops, Old Bay, and fennel seeds along with a pinch of salt and pepper. Add this to the mushrooms.

            Stir in the mayo, mustard, zest, and juice. You want the mixture to be quite thick so err on the side of less mayo than more. You can always add to it. Season with salt and pepper.

            Heat a large cast iron or ceramic pan over medium and add a tablespoon of olive oil. Tightly form the crab cakes in either an ice-cream scoop or a ring mold (spray with oil). Pack it tight or the cakes will fall apart. My first test one did just that because I did not pack it tight enough.

            Once all the cakes are in the pan, cover and let cook for about 8 minutes, until the bottoms look nice and brown. Take a little peak under one to make sure, you don’t want to turn them too soon. Gently flip with two spatulas. If they fall apart, it’s not the end of the world, you will have a tasty mound of mushroom no one will complain about, sort of like my last crab cakes.

Cook until the second side is browned as well, and serve immediately over the summer salad below. Or, some couscous, or rice, or even just a salad. I added some sriracha mayonnaise I saved from the night before, but you can use any flavored mayo or just eat as is.

Summer Corn Salad

            You can vary the proportions here as you like, and add or subtract as well. Diced up seasonal green beans would be good here, some golden beets, peas, or any veggie you love that is in season. Make a lot and enjoy it for several days.

• 2 or 3 ear of corn, cooked, kernels removed 
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 sweet red pepper, diced
• 1 poblano pepper, diced
• 1 yellow onion, diced
• 1 sweet apple, diced
• 1 tbsp. chives, minced
• 1/3 cup white wine or water
• Squeeze of lemon juice
• 1-2 tbsp. white wine vinegar

Sauté the peppers and onion in the olive oil until soft but not colored. Deglaze the plan with the wine and continue cooking until the wine is absorbed Place in a bowl with the corn kernels, apple, chives, lemon, and vinegar, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

“The first ear of corn, eaten like a typewriter, means summer to me—intense, but fleeting.” ~ Michael Anthony

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